AC Replacement Cost (2026)

Typical AC replacement cost: $3,900–$8,100 for a central air conditioner (condenser and matched coil), professionally installed. Most homeowners pay around $6,000.

Every HomeCostOwl headline range is the complete standard job, installed: materials, labour, standard permits and disposal included. Anything not included is named and priced in its own section on the same page.

Most AC replacements are the same job: the outdoor condenser and the indoor coil it feeds are worn out, the ductwork and wiring are already there, and a crew swaps the equipment in a day. That standard job has a well-defined price. The confusion in most cost guides comes from mixing it up with a different, bigger purchase, replacing the whole HVAC system, furnace included. This guide prices the AC-only job as the headline, and gives the full-system job its own table, so you can budget for the purchase you are actually making.

How the total is built: the Component-Built Cost Method

Every installed price in this guide is built the same way, our Component-Built Cost Method:

Total installed cost = Equipment (condenser + matched coil) + Installation labour + Permit + Refrigerant recovery & disposal + Line-set & connection extras

• Equipment, the outdoor condenser and its matched indoor coil, at verifiable online retail prices by tonnage and SEER2 tier: about $2,270 for 1.5 ton and $3,030 for 3 ton in the current entry-level (13.4 SEER2) lines, and $2,300–$4,300 across the 1.5–3.5 ton standard tiers, premium brands and higher SEER2 tiers price above these value-brand listings.
• Installation labour, the full installation charge for a standard swap: $1,000–$2,500 (Angi’s project data runs $500–$2,500; This Old House $1,126–$2,565). A like-for-like swap is usually a one-day job for a two-person crew.
• Permit, the local permit the standard job requires: $100–$400 (HomeGuide $100–$250; Angi $250–$400). It is part of the headline scope.
• Refrigerant recovery & disposal, recovering the old refrigerant (federal rules require it to be recovered, not vented) and removing the old unit: $25–$250 if an installer charges it separately; usually included in the quote, and part of the headline scope either way.
• Line-set & connection extras, $0 when the existing line set is flushed and reused and the existing circuit serves, which is what the headline assumes. A new line set for a standard, accessible run costs $200–$700 installed (the copper lines themselves are $120–$400 of that); long or in-wall runs are priced on the quote, and ductwork or panel work beyond the standard swap is priced in the true-total section below, not folded in here.

Adding the components for the typical 3-ton swap lands around $4,800–$7,600 installed, inside the cross-checked headline range above. The full method, including how the component build is checked against at least three independent published sources before anything is published, is on How We Estimate.

Worked example: a typical 3-ton AC-only swap

A like-for-like replacement, a 3-ton system at the legal-minimum efficiency (13.4 SEER2) in a 1,600–2,000 sq ft home: same tonnage, same location, ductwork sound and reused, the existing line set flushed and reused, and the existing circuit and disconnect reused, so line-set & connection extras are $0:

Line item	Cost
Equipment, condenser + matched indoor coil, 3 ton, 13.4 SEER2 (the online retail listing priced in the money section below)	$3,030
Installation labour (within the $1,000–$2,500 range above)	$2,400
Permit (within the $100–$400 range above)	$350
Refrigerant recovery & disposal (within the $25–$250 separately-charged range above)	$220
Line-set & connection extras	$0
Total	$6,000

Step by step: $3,030 + $2,400 = $5,430; $5,430 + $350 = $5,780; $5,780 + $220 = $6,000; $6,000 + $0 = $6,000, the “around $6,000” most homeowners pay, inside the $3,900–$8,100 headline range, this guide’s 3-ton band ($5,000–$9,200) and the minimum-SEER2 ladder band ($4,800–$7,000). Your quote moves inside those ranges with your tonnage, your SEER2 tier, and any line-set, ductwork or electrical work your home actually needs, each priced in its own section below.

AC replacement cost at a glance

Job	Typical installed range	Source
Standard AC replacement (AC only, existing ducts)	$3,900–$8,100	Angi/HomeAdvisor project data, 2026 (24,979 verified projects: $3,887–$8,073), corroborated at the low end by Forbes Home, 2026 ($3,800–$7,700) and at the top by HomeGuide member project data, 2026 ($5,000–$8,300)
Most homeowners pay (AC only)	around $6,000	Angi/HomeAdvisor, 2026 (average $5,978) · Fixr, 2026 (average $6,000)
Small/basic job (1.5–2 ton, minimum SEER2)	$3,700–$6,300	Per-ton table below, reconciled from the aggregator per-ton table (Angi/industry data) against this guide’s component builds and HomeGuide’s by-size pricing, 2026 (cost-check record)
Large or high-efficiency job (4–5 ton and/or 17+ SEER2)	$8,000–$14,000	Per-ton and SEER2 ladder tables below (cost-check record, 2026): 5 ton runs to $14,000; the 19–21+ SEER2 tier runs $8,500–$13,000 at 3 ton
AC + furnace replaced together (full system)	$6,500–$15,500	Combined-job section below, built from this guide’s AC-only figures and the furnace guide’s ranges, less the combined-job saving (cost-check record)
New ductwork, if needed on top	+$3,000–$7,500	Angi, 2026 (new ductwork adds $3,000–$7,500); HomeGuide ductwork guide, 2026 (new installation $2,400–$6,600)

The headline band is the standard swap: same tonnage class, same location, ducts and electrical reused. The tables below widen it in both directions, by size, by efficiency, and by the condition of everything the new unit connects to.

First, know which job you’re pricing: AC only vs the whole system

This is where most cost guides go wrong, and where most quote confusion starts.

• AC-only replacement, what this guide headlines, replaces the outdoor condenser and the indoor evaporator coil. Your furnace or air handler stays, and its blower pushes the cooled air through the existing ducts. Typical: $3,900–$8,100.
• Full HVAC replacement replaces the AC and the furnace/air handler in one project. Typical: $6,500–$15,500, most around $10,000, priced in detail in the combined-job section below.

When a website quotes you an “average AC cost” near $9,000–$12,000, it is almost always pricing the second job while labelling it the first. Check which scope a number covers before you compare it to a quote.

Cost by tonnage

AC size is measured in tons, one ton removes 12,000 BTU of heat per hour. Bigger homes need more tons, and each step up costs more equipment and a little more labour:

Tonnage	Cooling capacity	Typical home size	Installed range (AC only)
1.5 ton	18,000 BTU	600–1,000 sq ft	$3,700–$6,300
2 ton	24,000 BTU	1,000–1,300 sq ft	$4,300–$7,500
2.5 ton	30,000 BTU	1,300–1,600 sq ft	$4,700–$8,300
3 ton	36,000 BTU	1,600–2,000 sq ft	$5,000–$9,200
3.5 ton	42,000 BTU	1,900–2,300 sq ft	$6,000–$10,400
4 ton	48,000 BTU	2,200–2,700 sq ft	$7,000–$11,600
5 ton	60,000 BTU	2,600–3,200+ sq ft	$7,800–$14,000

Standard efficiency (13.4–15.2 SEER2), existing ductwork. The home-size column uses the common rule of thumb of one ton per 500–600 sq ft; hot climates and poorly insulated homes land at the bigger end of each pairing, and the sizing section below explains why the rule of thumb is only a starting point.

The SEER2 ladder: what each efficiency step costs and saves

SEER2 is the current federal efficiency rating, the higher the number, the less electricity the system uses for the same cooling. The legal minimums are 13.4 SEER2 in the North and 14.3 SEER2 in the South and Southwest. What the steps above the minimum actually cost, on a 3-ton system:

SEER2 band	What you get	Installed (3 ton)	Cooling energy vs the minimum
13.4–14.3 (legal minimum)	Single-stage compressor, basic controls	$4,800–$7,000	Baseline
15.2–16.2	Single- or two-stage; the ENERGY STAR zone	$5,500–$8,500	~5–12% less
17–18.2	Two-stage compressor, quieter, better humidity control	$6,800–$10,500	~16–21% less
19–21+	Variable-speed (inverter) compressor, the comfort tier	$8,500–$13,000	~25–32% less

The honest savings maths: cooling energy scales with 1/SEER2, so each step up saves roughly 5–7% against the rating just below it, the gains shrink as the numbers climb. Expect to pay roughly $800–$1,500 more for each 1–2 SEER2 points. In dollar terms, a utility reference example for a mid-Atlantic home (~970 full-load cooling hours a year) puts a summer’s cooling at about $565 for an old 13-SEER unit, ~$463 at 15.2 SEER2, ~$414 at 17 and ~$352 at 20, so the step from a code-minimum unit to 17 SEER2 is worth roughly $50–$110 a year there, and about double that in a hot climate with twice the cooling hours.

The verdict that follows from those numbers: in the South and Southwest, where the AC runs five-plus months a year, one or two steps up the ladder usually pays for itself over the system’s life. In a mild northern climate with a six-week cooling season, the minimum or the 15.2–16.2 band is usually the rational buy, and the higher tiers are then a comfort purchase (variable-speed systems are noticeably quieter and hold humidity and temperature steadier), not a savings one. Anyone promising a high-SEER2 unit will “pay for itself in two summers” in a mild climate is selling, not calculating.

How to size an AC (and why the rule of thumb isn’t enough)

The 500–600 sq ft-per-ton rule in the tonnage table is a starting estimate, nothing more. Two homes with identical floor plans can need different tonnage because of ceiling height, window area and direction, insulation, duct condition and climate, and the penalty for guessing wrong runs both ways:

• Undersized: runs constantly on hot days, never quite catches up, and wears out early.
• Oversized: cools the air fast and shuts off before it has removed the humidity, leaving the house cool but clammy, cycling wear onto the compressor, and costing more to buy in the first place. Bigger is not better; matched is better.
• The right process is a Manual J load calculation, the industry-standard method that accounts for your home’s actual heat gain. It takes an installer under an hour. If a quote names a tonnage without one, ask why.

For a first estimate of the cooling load your home needs, use our BTU calculator, it works from square footage, ceiling height, insulation and climate zone:

You can also run it on its own page: BTU Calculator. Treat its result as the size class to discuss with installers, the Manual J on the day is what should set the final tonnage.

Where the money goes: equipment vs labour

On a typical 3-ton standard replacement, the bill breaks down roughly like this:

• The equipment: roughly 40–55% of the total. A matched condenser + indoor coil set retails online at about $2,270 for 1.5 ton and $3,030 for 3 ton in the current entry-level (13.4 SEER2) lines, rising to roughly $4,300+ at 3.5 ton in a 15.2 SEER2 tier, premium brands and higher SEER2 tiers price above these value-brand listings, which is part of why quotes vary.
• Installation labour: roughly $1,000–$2,500 of a standard job. A like-for-like swap is usually a one-day job for a two-person crew: recover the old refrigerant, set and connect the new equipment, charge and test the system.
• Permit: typically $100–$400, most municipalities require one for an AC replacement.
• Removal, disposal and refrigerant recovery: often included in the quote; charged separately it runs roughly $25–$250. Federal rules require the old refrigerant to be recovered, not vented, a quote that skips this step is cutting a legal corner.
• Line set, if replaced: $200–$700 for a standard, accessible run, parts and labour, the copper lines themselves run $120–$400 of that. Long or in-wall runs are priced on the quote (see below).

As with the furnace, compare itemised quotes line by line: a quote that omits the permit, the coil, or the disposal isn’t cheaper, it’s incomplete.

What changes the price

• Ductwork condition, the biggest swing factor. A replacement reuses your ducts, if they’re sound. Sealing leaks and repairing damaged sections runs $300–$1,500; replacing part of the system runs $1,400–$5,600; a full new duct system adds $3,000–$7,500. Leaky or undersized ducts also cap what any new unit can deliver, a 20 SEER2 system on ducts leaking a third of their air performs like a much cheaper one.
• Line set. The copper lines carrying refrigerant between the outdoor and indoor units can often be flushed and reused on a same-refrigerant swap. Replacing a standard, accessible run costs $200–$700; long runs, in-wall runs, damage, or a refrigerant change (below) push toward replacement and are priced on the quote.
• Electrical. The new unit needs a dedicated circuit and an outdoor disconnect. If the panel has room, adding them is usually a few hundred dollars at most, Angi puts a new circuit at $100–$150, but if your panel is full or undersized, upgrading to 200-amp service adds $1,300–$2,500. The quote should separate this out.
• Refrigerant type. What your old system runs on changes both the job and the repair maths, see the refrigerant section below.
• Access and placement. A ground-level pad beside the house is the cheap case. Rooftop, condo and tight-side-yard installs, long carries and crane lifts all add labour.
• Season and urgency. Installers are busiest in the first heat wave, and a no-cooling emergency in July gets neither scheduling choice nor sharp pricing. A planned replacement in early spring or fall can run 10–15% less and gets your pick of dates, the cheapest move in this guide is replacing a tired system before it fails.
• Region. Labour is the swing factor, the same install costs noticeably more in a high-cost metro than in a rural market, and climate changes the size of system you need in the first place. The regional section below shows the local figures we could verify.

What the headline number doesn’t include: the true total

The headline range is the complete standard job, as the note under it says. These are the extras that sit outside it, each priced from at least two established cost sources (checked October 2026) unless marked otherwise, if your quote lists one, this is what it should look like:

Extra	Typical cost	When it applies
Line set replacement (standard, accessible run)	$200–$700	The existing copper lines are damaged, the wrong size, or can’t be reused across a refrigerant change. Long or in-wall runs are priced on the quote.
Electrical panel upgrade to 200-amp service	$1,300–$2,500	The panel is full or undersized for the new unit. A new circuit and outdoor disconnect alone, where the panel has room, run a few hundred dollars at most.
Duct sealing or repairs	$300–$1,500	The inspection shows leakage or damaged sections.
Duct replacement (existing system)	$1,400–$5,600	Ducts are deteriorated or undersized for the new unit.
Full new duct system	adds $3,000–$7,500	The home has no usable ductwork to reuse.
New condenser pad, condensate pump or drain-line work	Priced locally on quote	Only when the existing pad or drain can’t serve the new unit. The parts are cheap, a condensate pump runs $45–$300 at retail, so this should be a small line; question a large one.

Two items are deliberately not in this table because they’re already inside the headline range: the standard permit (which runs $100–$400 when a quote itemises it) and removal, disposal and refrigerant recovery ($25–$250 if an installer charges it separately, most include it). If a quote adds either on top of a headline-scope price without explanation, ask why.

AC replacement cost where you live

The national range above is the headline because it’s the figure three-plus national datasets support. Local prices genuinely differ, though, so here are the local figures we could verify, under the same rule we use nationally: a figure appears only where at least two independent established datasets support it. Where they don’t, we say so rather than invent a number.

Area	Typical AC-only replacement	The two datasets
Houston, TX	$3,900–$9,100	Angi: $4,115–$8,640, average $6,375 · Modernize (Texas contractor quotes): $3,900–$9,100, average $5,900
Phoenix, AZ	$4,500–$9,000	Angi: $5,091–$8,837, average $6,892 · Modernize: $4,500–$9,000, average $6,500–$7,000
Atlanta, GA	$3,400–$8,800	Angi: $3,354–$6,637, average $4,862 · Modernize (Georgia contractor quotes): $3,500–$8,800, average $6,200
California	Most jobs cluster around $6,900–$7,800 (statewide estimate); Los Angeles projects run $4,790–$10,100, average $7,428	Fixr’s 2026 California market analysis: installs run 15–30% above the national average · Angi’s Los Angeles project data

A word on the California row, because its two sources measure differently: Fixr’s $6,900–$7,800 is an estimated band around the average (the $6,000 national average plus California’s 15–30% premium), while Angi’s Los Angeles figures are the full spread of real projects, cheap swaps to big systems. The LA average, $7,428, lands inside Fixr’s band, the two agree on where the typical job sits, even though their ranges describe different things. Atlanta’s two datasets disagree more: Modernize’s Georgia quotes run higher than Angi’s Atlanta projects, especially at the top end, so the table shows the wider combined band and names both averages.

One dataset’s view, direction only, not verified ranges. Angi’s local data puts Chicago at $2,748–$5,472 (average $4,103), noticeably below the national band, which fits the Midwest’s lower labour rates, but no second dataset publishes Chicago figures, so treat it as one source’s picture. Angi’s national guide also lists average installation prices for a few other cities, New York City $7,000, San Francisco $7,900, Nashville $4,900, Green Bay $4,000, averages only, from the same single dataset. And Miami is the honest exception that proves the rule: Modernize puts Miami at $4,500–$9,000 (average $7,000) while Angi’s location table averages Miami at $4,150. When two datasets disagree on the average itself by nearly $3,000, neither is a safe planning figure, Miami readers should weight local quotes more heavily than usual.

What’s missing, on purpose. No verified ranges for the big regions as a whole (Northeast, Southeast, Midwest, South Central, Mountain, Pacific), for Dallas, or for any other state: the established datasets publish city data and national data, not regional bands, and we don’t manufacture state or regional numbers out of city ones. If your area isn’t listed, the national range is the planning figure, adjusted by the factors below.

What actually moves the price by region. The equipment itself is a national product, the same condenser ships to every state, so region reaches its price mainly through freight and sales tax (Los Angeles’ combined rate is 9.75%) and through code: California’s Title 24 standards set higher minimum efficiency than the federal floor, and the federal SEER2 floor itself is regional, 14.3 in the South and Southwest against 13.4 in the North, so the cheapest legal system in Phoenix already costs more than the cheapest legal system in Chicago.

Labour and permits are what really move: California HVAC technicians earn a median $31.39 an hour against $28.75 nationally (Bureau of Labor Statistics), Phoenix contractor rates run $75–$100 an hour against a $50–$80 national band, California’s permit and inspection rigour adds a day or two to a job, and a Phoenix permit alone runs $180–$200. Climate changes the job itself, too, Phoenix homes typically need 3–5 ton systems, and systems in hot and coastal climates live 10–15 years rather than 15–20, which is why replacement comes round sooner there.

Regional figures checked October 2026 and re-checked quarterly with the national figures.

Refrigerants, in plain English

Three refrigerant generations matter for a 2026 replacement:

• R-22 (systems installed before ~2010). Production and import ended in 2020; what’s left is reclaimed stock and expensive. If your system runs on R-22 and needs a major repair, that is usually the replace signal by itself, see the repair section.
• R-410A (the 2010–2024 standard). Still serviceable and will be for years, but it’s being phased down under the federal AIM Act, and new equipment can no longer be made with it. Prices for the refrigerant itself are expected to keep climbing as supply shrinks.
• R-454B and R-32 (the current standard). Every new system sold since January 1, 2025 uses one of these lower-impact refrigerants. Both are classed as mildly flammable (A2L), which changes the installer’s tools and procedures slightly, it requires nothing of you as the homeowner, and it is not a reason to hunt for old R-410A stock.

One practical consequence: the indoor coil must match the outdoor unit’s refrigerant and rating. A new R-454B or R-32 condenser paired with an old R-410A coil won’t deliver its rated efficiency and can void warranty coverage, which is why a proper “AC replacement” always prices the coil as part of the job, and why quotes that replace the outdoor unit alone deserve a hard question.

AC only, or AC + furnace together?

If your furnace is a similar age to your AC, they were often installed together, price the combined job before you decide. The full-system ranges, built from this guide’s AC figures and our furnace guide’s:

Job	Typical installed range
AC only	$3,900–$8,100
Furnace only	$2,800–$7,500
AC + furnace, one combined job	$6,500–$15,500 (most pay around $10,000)

The honest version of the saving: you pay for one installation visit instead of two, one crew setup, one haul-away, and in many areas one permit and inspection, typically worth roughly $500–$1,500 against booking the jobs separately, and a matched AC + furnace from the same system family is rated to work together, which helps the AC actually hit its SEER2 number. The counterpoint, stated just as honestly: if your furnace is mid-life and healthy, there is no prize for replacing it early. Get both quotes and compare them against the furnace’s age. Our Furnace Replacement Cost guide has the heating-side ranges, fuel by fuel.

Common add-ons priced at install time

Add-on	Typical cost	Worth it when
Smart thermostat	$200–$500 installed	Your current thermostat is basic; the device itself runs $130–$300 at retail, and some new systems need a communicating thermostat to use all their features
Duct sealing	$300–$1,500	The inspection shows leakage, often a better buy than a bigger or higher-SEER2 unit
Zoning (dampers + second thermostat)	from ~$1,700–$2,000 for a basic two-zone setup	Two-storey homes with a persistent hot-upstairs problem

Repair or replace?

A central AC lasts 15–20 years in most of the US, toward the bottom of that, or less, in hot and coastal climates where systems run longer hours and salt air corrodes outdoor coils. Age alone doesn’t decide it; use these tests:

1. The compressor test. The compressor is the heart of the system and its most expensive part: replacement runs $1,200–$3,500 installed. If the compressor fails under warranty on a younger system, repair. If it fails out of warranty on a system over 10 years old, that single repair is a quarter to a half of a whole new system, replace, in almost every case.
2. The $5,000 rule. Multiply the system’s age in years by the repair quote in dollars. Over $5,000, replacement usually wins: a 12-year-old system facing a $600 repair scores 7,200, replace. A 6-year-old facing the same $600 scores 3,600, repair. It’s a rule of thumb, not a law, but it tracks the real maths of remaining life.
3. The refrigerant test. A major repair, especially a refrigerant leak, on an R-22 system is a replace decision: the refrigerant is no longer made, top-ups are priced accordingly, and you’ll face the same wall at the next failure. Repeated refrigerant top-ups on any system mean a leak nobody has fixed; price a replacement alongside the leak repair.
4. Repair frequency. One breakdown is a repair. Two or three service calls in two summers is a pattern, and each bill is buying you an older, less efficient system.

Cheaper repairs, capacitors, contactors, fan motors, drain and control faults, typically a few hundred dollars, are worth doing at almost any age if the compressor and coils are sound.

Or run the tests on your own numbers, our repair-or-replace checker works through the same four tests with your system’s type and age, what needs repairing, and the quote in front of you:

Ways to save, honestly

• Replace before it fails. A planned replacement in the shoulder season gets three quotes and your choice of dates; a July breakdown gets whichever crew can come. If your system is 15+ years old, starting quotes in March is the cheapest move in this guide.
• Get 2–3 itemised quotes for the same scope. Ask each installer to separate: equipment (condenser and coil, with model numbers, tonnage and SEER2), labour, permit, disposal, line set and any ductwork or electrical. The scope trap in this trade is a condenser-only quote compared against a full matched-system quote.
• Stay in the rational SEER2 band for your climate. One or two steps up in a hot climate; minimum or 15.2–16.2 in a mild one. The ladder section shows the maths.
• Right-size, don’t up-size. An oversized unit costs more to buy, more to run, and dehumidifies worse. Insist on the Manual J.
• Check incentives that actually exist, and ignore ones that don’t. The federal Section 25C tax credit that used to cover high-efficiency central AC ended for equipment placed in service after December 31, 2025 (per the IRS), so a system installed in 2026 does not qualify, whatever older articles and installer flyers say. What does still exist: state programmes, utility rebates and manufacturer rebates, which vary widely and change often, check the DSIRE database (dsireusa.org) and your electric utility before you buy. If you had a qualifying system installed in 2025, you may still be able to claim that year’s credit on your 2025 return.
• Fix the ducts before you upsize the system. Sealing a leaky duct system ($300–$1,500) can recover more delivered cooling than a tonnage or SEER2 step buys, for less money.

How we estimate these costs

Every range on this page is built with our Component-Built Cost Method, from the components of the job (the condenser and matched coil at verifiable retail prices by tonnage and SEER2 tier, standard installation labour, permit and disposal), and then checked against at least three independent published cost sources (for this page: Angi’s 2026 project data from 24,979 verified projects, Fixr’s 2026 cost guide, HomeGuide’s member-reported project costs, This Old House’s 2026 homeowner survey, and Forbes Home’s cost research, all checked October 2026). Where the sources disagree, and on full-system averages and high-efficiency prices they genuinely do, we publish the range supported by actual project data, keep the two job scopes separate, and say so in our internal cost-check record.

Regional figures and the priced extras follow the same discipline: a local figure appears only where at least two independent datasets support it, and the ones we couldn’t support are named as missing rather than estimated. Prices are re-checked quarterly. Full method: How We Estimate. That is the method behind every AC replacement cost figure in this guide.

FAQ

How much does it cost to replace a central air conditioner?
Typically $3,900–$8,100 installed for the AC-only job, condenser and matched indoor coil, existing ductwork reused, with most homeowners paying around $6,000 (costs checked October 2026). Small 1.5–2 ton systems start from about $3,700; large or high-efficiency systems run to $12,000–$14,000; replacing the furnace at the same time (a full HVAC system) runs $6,500–$15,500.

How long does a central air conditioner last?
15–20 years in most of the US with annual maintenance. Systems in hot climates that run most of the year, and coastal systems exposed to salt air, often land at 10–15 years. Neglected systems, clogged coils, never-changed filters, can be done at 10 anywhere.

How long does an AC replacement take?
Most like-for-like replacements are finished in one working day, roughly 4–8 working hours including removing the old unit, setting and connecting the new one, charging the system and testing it. Jobs that add ductwork, a line-set replacement or electrical work stretch to two or three days, and the permit inspection may be scheduled separately.

What size AC do I need for my home?
Start with the rule of thumb, one ton per 500–600 sq ft: roughly 2 ton for 1,000–1,300 sq ft, 3 ton for 1,600–2,000 sq ft, 4 ton for 2,200–2,700 sq ft, 5 ton above that. Then have your installer confirm it with a Manual J load calculation, which adjusts for climate, insulation, windows and layout. Our BTU Calculator gives a first estimate. Bigger is not better: an oversized unit costs more, cycles on and off, and leaves the house humid.

Should I repair or replace my AC?
Run the tests: a failed compressor out of warranty on a system over 10 years old ($1,200–$3,500 to repair, costs checked October 2026) usually means replace; the $5,000 rule (age × repair quote over $5,000 → replace) covers most other cases; and a major repair on an old R-22 system is a replace decision, because the refrigerant is no longer made. Small electrical and control repairs on a system with a sound compressor are worth doing at almost any age.

Are there tax credits or rebates for a new AC in 2026?
No federal one: the Section 25C credit ended for equipment placed in service after December 31, 2025, per the IRS, and some cost guides still showing it are out of date. State programmes, utility rebates and manufacturer rebates for high-efficiency systems do still exist in many areas, check DSIRE (dsireusa.org) and your electric utility’s current offers before you buy, and if you installed a qualifying system in 2025, ask your tax preparer about claiming that year.

Sources

Every figure on this page is built with our Component-Built Cost Method and cross-checked against these published sources (all checked October 2026):

• Angi, 2026 project data (24,979 verified AC replacements) and local project data
• Fixr, 2026 AC replacement cost guide and California market analysis
• HomeGuide, AC replacement cost data (member-reported project prices)
• This Old House, 2026 homeowner survey
• Forbes Home, AC cost research
• Modernize, Texas and Georgia contractor-quote data (regional figures)
• US Bureau of Labor Statistics, HVAC technician wage figures (regional section)